Month: November 2021

失去餐馆帝国的杰米·奥利弗,如何让人“吃得更好”?

  • 失去餐馆帝国的杰米·奥利弗,如何让人“吃得更好”?KIM SEVERSON2019年9月30日杰米·奥利弗在位于北伦敦的总部制作意大利小方饺。那里的中枢是一个实验厨房。杰米·奥利弗在位于北伦敦的总部制作意大利小方饺。那里的中枢是一个实验厨房。 John Kernick for The New York Times[《纽约时报》推出每日中文简报,为你介绍时报当日的重点英文报道,并推荐部分已被译成中文的精选内容。新读者请点击此处订阅,或发送邮件至[email protected]加入订阅。]伦敦——最近一个周一,快到午餐时间,杰米·奥利弗(Jamie Oliver)略微发福的身上围了件围裙,开始用研钵和杵捣碎薄荷和蚕豆,多年来这一直是他最喜爱的厨房工具。20年前作为“原味主厨”(Naked Chef)从楼梯扶手滑下、扎入流行美食文化中时那一头可爱的乱发,如今已经剪短。现年44岁的奥利弗给人感觉更像是一位亲切而厌世的高中老师,而不是当年在美食电视界大红大紫的时候那个目中无人、爱说笑的家伙,人人都想来套近乎。还有,他的蓝眼睛下面,是眼袋吗?广告“抱歉,亲爱的,”他一边给多佛比目鱼片调味,一边说道。“我有点儿累。”他的一天,在早上6点前就开始了。他把孩子送到学校,然后去北伦敦一个由仓库改建的地方,现在是他的总部。给一名记者做了午饭后,他还得与来自利物浦、曼彻斯特、伯明翰及伦敦的高官见面,这些官员来他的办公室是要和他商谈出一个计划,在2030年前将儿童肥胖率减半。雪上加霜的是,他和妻子茱丽叶(Juliette,大家都管她叫茱尔斯[Jools])周末为了搬进一座720万美元的16世纪都铎式别墅,累了个半死。新房子离奥利弗父母在埃塞克斯的酒吧不远。(他们还留着北伦敦那幢八卧室联排别墅。)当然,没错,他们那种搬家,和让朋友帮忙把床垫搬进没有电梯的单身公寓不太一样。但搬家终归是搬家,尤其是当你有5个孩子,其中一个还是极度兴奋的三岁小孩,一整晚“都在我身边像响尾蛇一样蹦个不停,”奥利弗说。让他感到疲倦的不只是前一晚没睡好,搬入新家以及日程排得太满。“过去四年里,我可能已经被推到了个人的极限。”奥利弗说,在所有他近期关闭的餐馆中。“十五”让他最为难过。图为2003年的奥利弗。“十五”是他的首家餐馆,创办初衷是为了培训无业年轻人。奥利弗说,在所有他近期关闭的餐馆中。“十五”让他最为难过。图为2003年的奥利弗。“十五”是他的首家餐馆,创办初衷是为了培训无业年轻人。 Jonathan Player for The New York Times五月的时候,杰米·奥利弗餐馆集团进入管理程序——一种破产保护的形式。有消息说公司欠债近8300万英镑(约7.3亿元人民币)。奥利弗说他尽了最大努力维持经营。但在关闭一些餐馆、将相当于1500万的自有资金注入公司,以及寻找新投资者后,他放弃了。他或关闭、或出售了共计25家餐厅,解雇了超过1000人。关闭他的第一家餐馆——时髦的伦敦“十五”(Fifteen)餐厅——让他最为难过。2002年,他开设了这家餐厅以便向无业年轻人提供培训,这些人许多出身贫寒,他教他们如何准备品鉴菜单,制作新鲜意大利面,以及管理一间考究餐馆的大堂。广告“那是我不得不做的事情中最困难的一件了,”他谈及餐厅的关门时说。“太糟糕了。可怕。”很容易在奥利弗身上看到一点伊卡洛斯(Icarus)的影子,或是将他的传奇故事看作一个高成就者的人生教训。但现在开始深刻反思还为时尚早,而且那也不是他擅长的事。他读书成绩很差,但却对厨房轻车熟路,于是进了烹饪学校。当他在河畔咖啡馆(River Café)担任副主厨时,一个BBC摄制组到那里拍摄一部纪录片。一个聪明的制片人看出他非常上镜。1999年,《原味主厨》在英国的BBC2台首播,一年后在美国的美食频道(Food Network)播[......]

    Read more

    Continue reading

    拜登命令情报机构调查新冠起源,90天内提交报告

  • 拜登命令情报机构调查新冠起源,90天内提交报告MICHAEL D. SHEAR, JULIAN E. BARNES, CARL ZIMMER, BENJAMIN MUELLER2021年5月27日2月,武汉病毒研究所外。当时,世卫组织团队正在访问该研究所。2月,武汉病毒研究所外。当时,世卫组织团队正在访问该研究所。 Ng Han Guan/Associated Press华盛顿——周三,拜登总统下令美国情报机构调查新冠病毒的起源,表明他的政府重视这种致命病毒从实验室意外泄露的可能性,此外还有一种普遍的理论,认为它是在实验室外由动物传播给人类的。拜登在一份声明中明确表示,中情局和其他情报机构未就这种病毒在中国如何起源达成共识。该病毒引发了一场大流行,导致近60万美国人死亡。他指示他们在90天内向他汇报。“我现在已经要求情报部门加倍努力,收集和分析信息,让我们更接近一个确凿的结论,”总统表示。这是拜登就病毒如何传播给人类这个问题发表的最公开、最广泛的声明。与此同时,高级卫生官员本周再次呼吁进行更严格的调查。此前,世界卫生组织(World Health Organization)召集的一个国际专家小组发布的报告遭到了越来越多的批评。这份报告在很大程度上排除了病毒意外从中国科学院武汉病毒学研究所的实验室泄漏的可能性。广告这种病毒在17个月的时间里蔓延到全球各地,其起源仍然非常不确定。科学家们的评估基本上没有改变:许多人认为,所谓的从动物到人类的自然溢出仍然是最合理的解释。虽然美国情报机构已经收集了一些新证据,但这些额外的信息还不足以让他们对酝酿已久的疫情中心武汉实验室泄漏假说得出明确结论。但总统措辞谨慎的指令,突显出人们对该实验室的关注再度激增。唐纳德·J·特朗普(Donald J. Trump)总统和他的一些高级助手多次将疫情归咎于该实验室。一些科学家将对该实验室的重新关注归因于特朗普离开白宫——以及对该理论的认同度降低——而另一些人则表示,这反映出由中国科学家参与撰写的世界卫生组织最近的报告令人们深感失望。国家情报总监埃夫丽尔·D·海恩斯(Avril D. Haines)一直在与不同的情报机构合作,召集持不同观点的官员进行讨论,审查不断变化的科学,并推动更多的情报收集工作。不过,拜登的命令是一个突发例子,表明总统干预了那些负责为他收集和分析情报的人收集原始数据的工作。总统们往往不愿表现出过多地参与到他们所收到的情报简报的准备工作中去,尽管拜登一直在积极要求提供有关俄罗斯入侵和国内恐怖主义等问题的情报报告。据一名白宫高级官员和一名政府官员透露,总统曾在3月份要求对该病毒的来源进行内部评估,该评估在两周前的总统每日情报简报中交给了他。官员们表示,这引发了一场讨论,内容是将部分调查结果解密,并让情报官员发表公开声明。这位高级官员说,这份声明——其中述及情报机构之间缺乏共识——本周已经准备就绪,但是拜登认为这无助于向公众澄清这个问题。该官员说,周二,中国采取强硬态度,反对与世卫组织合作进行进一步调查,这促使拜登要求美国进行更有力的调查。广告目前还不清楚拜登采取行动是不是由于一些科学家的公开意见转变,或是来自特朗普在国会山的共和党盟友的政治压力,后者曾多次指责总统和民主党人拒绝认真对待实验室起源理论。周三晚上,印第安纳州共和党参议员迈克·布劳恩(Mike Braun)和密苏里州共和党参议员乔什·霍利(Josh Hawley)抓住参议院一个相对平静的时间,通过了一项法案,将有关中国实验室与疫情源头之间任何潜在联系的情报解密。此前的周二,参议院一致同意将两项共和党条款纳入一个庞大的一揽子涉华法案中,旨在禁止向武汉病毒学研究[......]

    Read more

    Continue reading

    强奸犯是一群怎样的人?科学家们这样说

  • 健康强奸犯是一群怎样的人?科学家们这样说HEATHER MURPHY2017年10月31日调查性侵的一位先驱研究者撰写的论文《未被发现的强奸犯》中收录了这些文章。他的结论是,这些文章造成了对强奸者的认知误区——很多强奸者并没有出现在新闻报道中或法庭上。调查性侵的一位先驱研究者撰写的论文《未被发现的强奸犯》中收录了这些文章。他的结论是,这些文章造成了对强奸者的认知误区——很多强奸者并没有出现在新闻报道中或法庭上。 1976年,克莱尔蒙特研究生大学(Claremont Graduate University)的一名博士生在洛杉矶的多家报纸上刊登了一则很不寻常的个人广告:“你是强奸者吗?匿名电话调研,保护你的隐私。拨打213-___-____。早9点至晚9点。” Samuel D. Smithyman他坐在电话旁,担心没人打来。“我觉得没人会回应,”现年72岁的塞缪尔·D·史密斯曼(Samuel D. Smithyman)说。他现在是南卡罗来纳州的一名临床心理学家。但是,有人打来。而且有近200人。电话的另一端,有强奸了“算是女友”的电脑程序员;强奸了熟人妻子的画家;还有一名学校看管人,他作案10至15次,说是为了报复比弗利山庄的“有钱的混蛋们”。广告夏天结束时,史密斯曼完成了50次采访,那成了他的论文《未被发现的强奸犯》(The Undetected Rapist)的基础。令他特别惊讶的是,这些人听起来很正常,背景很多样化。他的结论是,几乎无法对他们进行一般性的概括。在过去的几周里,世界各地的女性都在社交媒体上以 #MeToo 为标签,讲述自己遭到性骚扰或性侵犯的故事。即使我们只关注性侵犯,也会发现指控者的故事各不相同,似乎与史密斯曼的调查结果相一致。不过最近的研究表明,共性是有的。在他的论文发表几十年后,科学家们逐渐理出了有性侵行为的男性的概貌。最明显的相似点与传统的人口统计类别没什么关系,比如种族、阶级和婚姻状况。相反,出现了其他一些类型:研究发现,这些人从很早就开始性侵;他们可能会与其他也有过性暴力犯罪的人有联系;他们通常否认自己强奸过女性,尽管他们承认发生过未经对方同意的性关系。很多研究人员表示,澄清这些模式是遏制这种导致极大痛苦的行为的最现实途径。“如果你并不真的了解犯罪者,你就永远不会理解性暴力,”《暴力心理学》(Psychology of Violence)杂志的编辑谢丽·汉比(Sherry Hamby)说。这似乎是显而易见的,但她说每收到“十篇关于受害者的论文”,才会有一篇关于犯罪者的论文。广告这种现象的一个原因是,人们倾向于认为性侵是女性的问题,尽管犯罪的通常是男性。不过,寻找合适的研究对象也使研究变得复杂。早期的研究严重依赖于被判刑的强奸犯。加州大学洛杉矶分校(University of California, Los Angeles)的心理学家尼尔·马拉姆思(Neil Malamuth)研究性侵已有数十年,他说,这种情况扭曲了数据。他说,被关进监狱的通常是“多面手”:“他们会偷你的电视,你的手表,你的车。有时也会窃取性。”但是,那些有过性侵但逃脱了惩罚、未被监禁的人通常是“专家”。性侵很可能是他们的主要犯罪行为。最近的一些研究往往依赖于大学生和其他群体的匿名调查,这些调查作出法律承诺,向受访者保证,他们的回答不能用于指控他们。这些研究避免使用“强奸”和“性侵”等字眼。相反,他们询问一些关于性侵行为和策略的非常具体的问题。大多数性侵研究的重点是承认非自愿性行为。在调查问卷和后续采访中,研究对象令人惊讶地坦然承认自己不理会对方不同意。广告研究表明,男性的强奸行为往往从年轻时就开始了,比如从高中或大学前几年起——很可能是违背了他们认识的某个人的意愿。有些人进行了一两次性侵,然后停止了。还有些人[......]

    Read more

    Continue reading

    Steven Jackson wants to rescue Cowboys, Batman-style

  • Night net Steven Jackson is a free agent. The Cowboys have no夜网论坛t ruled out adding a veteran running back.So it's fair to assume Jackson's tweet Thursday evening — a bat signal-like image of his No. 39 glowing over AT&T Stadium — was an act of self-promotion. MORE: Breaking down Cowboys RB camp battle | Dallas' plan omits Ray RiceAttn: @DallasCowboys pic.twitter.com/2W7HmONen6— Steven Jackson (@sj39) July 30, 2015The Falcons released Jackson in February. The 32-year-old put up 1,250 rushing yards and 12 touchdowns in two seasons with Atlanta to add to his 10,138 yards and 56 touchdowns in St. Louis, where he spent the first nine years of his career.  Dallas has flirted with the idea of signing a different veteran back — former Titans and Jets speedster Chris Johnson — but doesn't plan to add to its running back stable soon. Jackson's name has not been mentioned as a candidate to join Darren McFadden, Lance Dunbar, Joseph Randle and Lache Seastrunk on the Cowboys' depth chart.[......]

    Read more

    Continue reading

    Le'Veon Bell still waiting on suspension appeal date as Steelers open camp

  • Night net null While the world waits to see how many games Tom Brady will ultimately miss, the Steelers were in the dark about the suspension status of one of their star players as they entered training camp on Saturday.Running back La'Veon Bell says he hasn't received a hearing date for his appeal of the league's three-game suspension for violating its substance abuse policy. MORE: Most beloved picks for every team | Steelers' Antonio Brown: 'Holdouts never go well'“I have no idea," Bell told reporters when asked what was holding up his appeals process. Bell was arrested for DUI and marijuana possession last August, and sentenced to 15 months of probation in Feburary. He said he doesn't plan on taking things further if the league denies his appeal request. “Whatever it is," he said, "I’m going to take it and move forward from it.”The running back also said that he still has not fully recovered from a right knee injury he suffered late last season.“It’s close to 100 percent,” he said. “When I’m running I don’t really feel it as much. Sometimes when I’m stretching, I feel it. It doesn’t feel like my left knee does. It’s close to 100 percent. I’m excited to ge夜网论坛t back on the field and test it out.”Bell rushed for 1,361 yards for the Steelers last season, ranking second in the Night net behind DeMarco Murray in 2014.[......]

    Read more

    Continue reading

    Packers president says having Night net team in Los Angeles 'a high priority'

  • Night net null Whether it's the Rams, Chargers, Raiders夜网论坛 or any combination of the three, Packers president Mark Murphy believes the Night net needs a team in Los Angeles."It's very important," Murphy said Tuesday, via the Green Bay Press-Gazette, following the team's annual shareholders meeting. "It's the second-largest market in the country, and we don't have a team there. So I think that's been a priority for the league for years. Now, quite honestly, it does help to have a market like LA open so that there's always an option or chance that teams could move there. MORE: Roger Goodell believed little of what Tom Brady said | Best of Brady's career in photos"I think you've got three teams that are really looking at it. They all have, quite honestly, frustrating or disappointing stadium situations. They're all trying to get to improve their current situations in their home market. Whether or not that's achievable, we'll see." The Raiders and Chargers have a plan in place to share a stadium in the LA area while Rams owner Stan Kroenke has his own stadium proposal in the Los Angeles suburb of Inglewood. Kroenke also has the support of former Rams players like Eric Dickerson, who believes the Rams belong in LA. "That's like the Packers not being in Green Bay," Dickerson told ESPN on Friday. "You couldn't imagine that. I just f[......]

    Read more

    Continue reading

    Bernard Pollard: Tom Brady shouldn't have been suspended

  • Night net null Tom Brady has found an unlikely advocate i夜网论坛n Bernard Pollard. Pollard, the man who ended Brady's 2008 season, thinks the Night net got the Brady ruling all wrong. MORE: Suspensions shorter than Brady's | Night netPA, Night net asks judge for expedited Tom Brady decisionThe current free agent suggested Brady isn't the only quarterback who has thrown deflated balls. “I do not like Tom Brady as a competitor, somebody that’s playing against him because he is a competitive player. I respect the piss out of him because the guy knows how to win. The guy, you can say whatever you want about him, but he is a true champion," Pollard said on Sirus XM Night net Radio.Pollard's helmet-to-the-knee hit on Brady caused the quarterback to miss  the majority of the 2008 season. The former Chief, Texan, Raven and Titan is not currently on an Night net roster. “Do I feel that he should be suspended four games? I’m going to tell you, no,” he said. “This dude is a competitor, man. I don’t think he should’ve been suspended for four games. But I’m not the commissioner, I’m not on that committee that suspended him, and I know he’s going to fight tooth and nail like he does on the field to get back on the field with his team.”[......]

    Read more

    Continue reading

    Redskins GM Scot McCloughan: Team is 'very comfortable' with Junior Galette

  • Night net null Junior Galette wasn't out of work for long after being cut by the Saints, but that doesn't mean Redskins general manager Scot McCloughan didn't do his research before signing the controversial linebacker.“It was a long process,” McCloughan said Sunday, via CSN Washington. “I will promise you guys this: being new here and knowing where we’re going and what we want to build, I’m not going to bring a bad guy in. I will not give on that, at all.” MORE: Disgraced athl夜网论坛etes | Richie Incognito named Bills starterAlong with coach Jay Gruden and team president Bruce Allen, McCloughan sat down with Galette for a two-hour discussion before deciding whether or not to make him an offer. McCloughan also interviewed more than 20 people about Galette prior to the meeting. “(He’s) not a bad guy,” McCloughan said. “All players have issues. We all have some kind of issues. We’ve all made mistakes. I don’t want repeat offenders. I don’t want the guy that I know is not going to be a good guy to bring into our locker room.“What you always read in the media and hear in the media is not always accurate. We did our investigation. We were thorough, thorough, thorough. [We talked] to the league office, other players and coaches in the league. This guy we feel very comfortable with going forward. Very comfortable.”The Night net is inves[......]

    Read more

    Continue reading

    Cowboys owner Jerry Jones commends Roger Goodell for Tom Brady ruling

  • Night net null Patriots owner Robert Kraft is upset with the Night net and commissioner Roger Goodell, but that sentiment isn't shared throughout the league.Cowboys owner Jerry Jones told reporters Wednesday that he thinks Goodell has done a good job and supports his decision to uphold the four-game suspension of Patriots quarterback Tom Brady. MORE: Jones' best and worst moments as owner | Jen Welter is tired of hearing about Deflategate"He's got obviously a very tough job," Jones said, via ESPN, in Oxnard, Calif., where his team will open training camp this week. "Now I see some people doing that, that's that old violin that's not feeling too sorry for him because that's why you pay the big bucks is to deal with the big problems. But he's doing an outstanding job. I can tell you firsthand that in his spot you have to with people that you are counting on to help build and to help excel as far as the National Football League, I'm talking about the owners, you have to know that you're going to make some decisions that are very unpopular with that particular g夜网论坛roup. This is the case. "I can speak to that because on a personal basis as well as for my franchise and our Dallas Cowboys franchise, we've had that happen to us. I'm sitting there living with the result of the commissioner's decision still today that I didn't agree wi[......]

    Read more

    Continue reading

    Falcons reportedly close to signing OL Jake Long this week

  • Night net null The Falcons are expected to sign free-agent offensive tackle Jake Long this week, according to multiple reports.Long visited the team for a second time last week. According to nj.com, he also has worked out twice with the Giants, who are without starting tackle Will Beatty until at least mid-October. MORE: 15 most notable players on new teams in 2015 | Best current player at each jersey numberHis signing will come after Week 1, when the contracts of vested veterans are no longer guaranteed.  Long, 30, was selected first overall by the Dolphins in the 2008 Night net Draft, but is coming off consecutive seasons ending wi夜网论坛th a torn ACL while with the Rams. The four-time Pro Bowler and 2010 first-team All-Pro could provide depth to a shaky Falcons offensive line that allowed the Eagles' defense to consistently pressure quarterback Matt Ryan in Monday night's game.[......]

    Read more

    Continue reading